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The Printer Setup Checklist I Wish I Had Before Buying an Epson, UV, or Sublimation Printer

2026-08-18by Jane Smith

I run a small print shop and I've learned most of my lessons about printers the hard way. In my first year (2018), I plugged a new Epson printer into my network, installed the driver, and started a paid job the same afternoon. The output looked fine on the first sheet. The second sheet didn't matter, because the printer dropped offline and refused to come back until I had spent two hours troubleshooting. That project ended up costing $3,200 in wasted materials, missed delivery, and my own credibility with a client. I still keep the note from that week on my desk.

This checklist is for you if you're about to set up a new Epson, a UV printer, or a sublimation printer and you don't want to repeat my mistakes. There are six steps. Do them in order. It takes about an hour longer than the quick start guide, and it saves you days later.

When to Use This Checklist

Use this when you're installing a machine that didn't exist in your workflow before. That can be the Epson SureColor T2170 24" wireless printer in a design studio, a UV Printer 9060 in a sign shop, or a new sublimation printer in a garment business. The common thread is that you're moving from "we have a printer" to "this printer is now part of our production line." That's where the simple setup guide stops being enough.

Step 1: Check Power, Floor Space, and Ventilation Before Anything Else

Don't open the box where the old printer stood unless you've measured the space. I once put a UV flatbed in a corner that was four inches too tight. The operator couldn't access the front control panel, and the machine's exhaust vent was blocked. It's tempting to think a printer is just a box that prints, but in practice it's a network device, a chemical device, and a media-specific device at the same time. Ignoring any of those parts creates the type of emergency I used to deal with every month.

  • Check the power requirements. A large UV machine often needs a dedicated circuit. A desktop Epson doesn't.
  • Check airflow. UV inks and cleaning solutions need ventilation.
  • Check the floor. Level, stable, and dust-free areas are worth the effort.

Step 2: Set a Static IP For the Epson SureColor T2170 24" Wireless Printer

If you just bought the Epson SureColor T2170 24" wireless printer, take ten minutes to set a static IP. The most common "epson printer offline" complaint we deal with is not a hardware failure. It's a network identity problem: the printer's address changes, the computer still expects the old address, and the print job goes to the void.

You can reserve an IP in your router's DHCP table or set a manual IP on the printer's network screen. Either works. The important part is that the address doesn't change. I should add that wireless printing is usable for standard-size office documents, but for a 24" wide roll, I'd use a wired Ethernet connection whenever possible. Large files over Wi-Fi are a source of random failures that make no sense until you check the connection speed.

Step 3: Install the Driver Before You Turn the Printer On

This sounds backwards, but it avoids a common mess. Install the driver first, choose the connection type, and then power on the printer. If the printer is already connected, the installer often picks a temporary USB port, and later the system sends jobs to the wrong port. That's another reason why printers end up "offline."

Honestly, I'm not sure why Epson's installer behaves differently on different networks. My best guess is it's a leftover conflict with older print spooler settings. What I mean is, the printer might be physically fine while the computer is trying to talk to a ghost port. Put another way: the hardware is not the problem; the connection route is.

Checkpoint: After driver installation, go to Devices and Printers, open the printer's properties and confirm the port matches the IP you set. Then send a test page.

Step 4: Run a Nozzle Test and a Real Material Test Before Production

On a new printer, the first test should always be a nozzle check. On the SureColor T2170, that's under the maintenance menu. Print the pattern, inspect it, and then load the actual paper you'll use. Don't test on plain paper if the job is on matte film or glossy paper.

On a UV printer 9060, the same rule applies. A misalignment that looks small in a nozzle check pattern becomes a giant problem when you print 50 panels. (Should mention: I once skipped this on a 90-piece order and then had to reprint 88 pieces. The client got the job a week late. That cost me more than the reprint itself.)

The phrase "it looks fine on screen" is dangerous. The screen shows a preview, not the actual ink density, dot pattern, or color profile.

Step 5: Profile the Media and Respect Color Management

This is where I want to be direct: output quality is brand image. If a customer's first physical impression of your work is a purple that should have been red, the customer doesn't think "the printer is off." They think the shop is sloppy. In my experience, a $50 difference in media or profiling shows up clearly in the final product. The customer won't know why it looks better; they'll just trust you more.

When I switched from generic media settings to a custom ICC profile for our most-used materials, our reprint rate dropped by about a third. That's not a perfect number, and it doesn't apply to every shop, but the direction was obvious. What I mean is, the printer is only half of the equation. The media profile, ink type, and color settings are the other half, and skipping any of them shows up in the output.

If you're using a Dlican UV printer or any flatbed, don't assume the default color table is good enough for your clients. Test with the ink set you actually use, under the lighting conditions your customer will see the product.

Step 6: Match the Machine to Your Environment (Especially UV and Sublimation)

The step most people overlook is environment. A UV Printer 9060, for example, needs stable power, a ventilated area, and enough room for loading and unloading. Some entry-level flatbeds also produce ozone or odor from curing, which is fine in a workshop but unacceptable in a carpeted office.

A colleague runs a Dlican UV printer and had a similar problem: output quality changed every morning until he realized the workshop was freezing at night. Once he moved it to a heated, dust-controlled room, the first-sheet consistency came back. I've seen the same issue with sublimation printers in humid garages.

Before you buy a sublimation machine, search for "best sublimation printer brands" and you'll get a long list. That list is useful, but it won't tell you which brand has a local technician in your area. The best brand on paper is not the best brand when you can't get a service call for two weeks.

  • For UV printers: check room temperature range, dust control, and power stability.
  • For sublimation: check humidity and ventilation. Paper can absorb moisture and shift colors.
  • For wide-format Epson printers: check the roll feed area and make sure the printer can be left on or cleaned as recommended without your schedule fighting the maintenance cycle.

Final Checks and Common Mistakes

Here's a short list of warnings from years of getting this wrong:

  • Don't update firmware the same day you have a deadline. Do it when you have time to test.
  • Don't ignore the first "epson printer offline" warning. It's usually a sign that the IP address or the connection type needs attention.
  • Don't assume "wireless" means no IT setup. It means you need to know your router and your network.
  • If you're printing labels or marketing materials, remember that claims like "eco-friendly" or "recyclable" have to be truthful. Per FTC guidelines (ftc.gov), environmental claims must be substantiated. That's not a small detail. A customer who discovers a printed claim isn't true will remember your brand for the wrong reason.

My experience is based on about 60 printer installations in a small shop environment, mostly Epson plus a few UV and sublimation units. If you're running a high-volume production floor, your environment and workflow are different, and some of these steps will need to be adjusted. This isn't the only correct way; it's the checklist I wish someone had given me before I lost a week on a problem that was completely avoidable.